Fitting Putters

Understanding The 5 Variables And How They Affect Distance and Control

Putting is nothing more than consistent distance and directional control of the golf ball. This is easier to accomplish if you know the facts about proper putter fitting. I have a method of explanation that makes this very easy to understand and then the next easy step is for you to go out and do something about it. When discussing putter fitting it is best to break down each of the five putter fitting variables and discuss each regarding its effect on either distance control and/or directional control of the putt.

Watch my video, Dynamic Putter Fitting, for more information.

Length

Length equally affects both distance control and directional control of the putt and is very important regarding consistency in putting. The correct putter length depends on the type putting stroke you use. The most popular putting stroke today is when the golfer is slightly bent over at the waist and the knees slightly bent until the eyes are directly over the ball. The stance is square to the putt line and both arms are hanging down vertically and directly under the shoulders. The ball is approximately positioned out from the left heel. The stroke is a pendulum motion using the shoulders as a pivot point and causing the putter head to go slightly inside on the back stroke to square at impact to slightly inside on the follow through. Putter length is measured and fitted with the golfer in this position. Putters for men are mostly sold in 35” and 34” standard lengths (a few 33” exist). Womens’ putters are standard at 33”. Both men and women golfers will almost always fit into shorter lengths than those offered as standard. The average seems to be about 33” for men. The average length putter used on the PGA tour is 33” to 33 ½” for men. Women will usually fit into 31” to 32 ½” lengths. When fitting putters, length should always be the first fitting variable determined.

Loft Angle

Loft has greater effect on distance control than directional control but does affect both. A putter needs loft to be able to putt with any consistency. The amount of loft at impact needs to be between 3º and 4 ½º. Here’s why: on a green, when the ball comes to rest it settles down slightly into the grass. When you putt you do not want to drive the ball through the grass to get it up on top but rather you want to lift it out of its depression and place it up on top of the grass. This eliminates the possibility of the ball bouncing which is bad because it makes distance control more difficult. Next, a putt has initial skid and then it eventually goes into pure roll. We want this skid and roll percentage to be as consistent as possible through all lengths of putts. Research shows that 3º to 4 1/2º loft on a flat face will be the best way to accomplish this. If the loft is reduced to say 1º, it is not enough to get the ball out of its depression and it will bounce. If the loft is say 6º, the ball will be lofted too high which will also cause it to bounce. In either case distance control is less consistent because we need the ball skidding and rolling with minimum bouncing.

Lie Angle

Lie is almost all directional control in putting and very little in distance control. Because a putter has loft, anytime the lie angle is not properly fitted to the individual golfer the ball will not go in the direction your putter head is pointing. Basically when the loft angle is tilted (lie angle not correct) and not parallel to the ground, another angle is formed which we will call the misdirection control angle. A good example to explain this would be a golfer putting with the toe sticking up in the air at address. This would mean that the golfer is holding the putter too flat for the putters build in lie angle. Another way to say this is that the putters lie angle is too upright for the golfer and needs to be adjusted flatter in lie angle to fit properly. Assume the putter in question has 4º loft and is held 3º too upright (toe up). Because the 4º loft angle is tilted it creates a small misdirection control angle which points to the left. If we hit a 28 foot putt the ball would be pulled 1 5/8” left of our intended line and would lip out and miss. If all putters had 0º loft this misdirection control angle would not even exist. However, we would now have more difficulty in achieving good distance control. Fitting the proper lie angle on a putter is very important and should not be overlooked.

Swingweight

Swingweight is used as a means to be sure the putter head and the putters’ length have the proper weight relationship between them. This characteristic is a major factor in distance control of the putt. It also is a significant factor in directional control. The golfer needs to have enough weight in the head to achieve proper feel and balance of the putter. Too light and it is difficult to obtain a smooth backstroke, follow through and distance control. Too heavy and it is very difficult to get any kind of distance control, especially on longer putts. Heavy putters are, however, very accurate on shorter length putts. The best swingweight range is between C-8 and D-6. The problem with a number of putters currently in play is that they were built with the old lighter head weights and many fall into the A-1 to C-0 range. This is definitely a problem that most golfers do not need, so if you fall into this category check the swingweight on your putter. If necessary, simply put lead tape on the sole of the putter making sure to evenly cover the entire sole in layers until the correct weight is achieved.

Proper Putter Head Design

This fitting variable splits itself in importance between distance control and directional control of the putt. There are many very good putter designs on the market. Today we have the newer larger head shapes that claim high moments of inertia but there are still many of the traditional putter shapes to choose from. Putter shafts can be straight, single bend or double bend. The putter heads can be center shafted or end shafted. Much of this is personal choice regarding looks, feel and above all feeling comfortable with your choice. An important performance variable to consider when buying a putter is whether or not you want the easier playability of a high MOI putter head design. High MOI putters are far more forgiving on off-center impacts. My putter testing using high speed photography also says that you want a smooth flat faced putter.

If you really want to get into understanding all the performance variables in putters, their playability differences, in-depth fitting of putters and actually seeing the high speed photography of the putter head and ball at impact, then you want to watch my two-hour video, Dynamic Putter Fitting. I believe that anyone watching and applying this video to their own situation will improve their putting. Too many golfers know too little about their equipment and they accept the playability of their current golf clubs not realizing how proper selection and fitting of golf clubs can help them play better.

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Article Discussion

  • 10:19AM - Aug 25, 2008RE: Fitting Putters

    #28
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    PhillyB66, late january of 2009.

  • 7:49PM - Aug 23, 2008RE: Fitting Putters

    #27
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    Thank you, I can’t wait for it. When can we expect to see it?

  • 2:59PM - Aug 22, 2008RE: Fitting Putters

    #26
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    PhillyB66, should end up with two. Right now there is one.

  • 9:32AM - Aug 21, 2008RE: Fitting Putters

    #25
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    Ralph I was wondering if you have any center shafted putters coming out? I see that you have the Max Moment. Do you have any others?

    I seem to favor the center shafts better then the offset.

    Thanks

  • 4:33PM - Aug 18, 2008RE: Fitting Putters

    #24
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    Yes, I like them a lot. They are a heavier putter, which I like, and the ball feels great off the face. Thumbs up from me.

  • 3:44AM - Aug 4, 2008RE: Fitting Putters

    #23
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    Have you had any chance to try them out? How do you think they perform compared to your OEM putters?

  • 9:13AM - Jul 30, 2008RE: Fitting Putters

    #22
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    Thanks Phishpharm14,

    It helps!

    Eriki

  • 4:38AM - Jul 30, 2008RE: Fitting Putters

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    Erik— I literally just finished building two of the 304 series (model 2 and 3) putters last night, and tried them for the first time today on the putting green. Wow, they feel great. I have tried every putter under the sun and I would say that these stand tall next to any. Plus, they have a heavier head, which I personally like. The 304 steel has a great feel upon impact and was easy to control distance. My only hope is that Mr. Maltby continues with the milled series and will explore additional head designs and finishes for future release.

    These putters don’t have grooves like Rife or Yes putters, but they are milled. They have mill marks similar to that of Cameron or PING Redwood putters, e.g. I have personally never tried the CER putters that you refer to. And understanding that choosing a putter is a very individual decision, I can honestly say that the 304 is a high quality putter for the price. I will be setting my Cameron’s aside to put these in play the next time I tee it up. I hope this helps.

  • 3:22PM - Jul 28, 2008RE: Fitting Putters

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    Hi,

    I’m considering a new putter and I’m looking at the CER CP and the Maltby 304. The CP02 blade is the one that looks best to me. BUT the 304 is described as: “Our goal in developing the Maltby 304 Series of putters was to offer a line of putters that compares to the expensive OEM brands”. Does this mean that you consider the Maltby 304 a better putter than the CER CP?

    Many of the putters on the OEM market today either have grooves or insert. The CER CP has an insert. Does the 304 has grooves?

    I am very fond of the “Yes! Callie” putter which is a heel/toe putter with a 355g head weight. It feels very stable when putting. Will any of the Golfworks putters be similar in feel to an “expensive OEM putter” like that if I assemble with the same shaft length?

    Thanks Erik

  • 12:54PM - Jul 27, 2008RE: Fitting Putters

    #19
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    Hi Ralph,

    After reading your response I went to the practice green with some impact tape and was happy to see that my spread was only about an inch or less. I did swap grips again and went with a mid size Winn and removed some of the lead weight to get it back down to a D3.

    The smaller grip seemed to help a lot with distance control and it’s large enough to still keep my hands quiet. I did have the loft check and it was actually between 4* & 5* so that was not my problem but it’s comforting to know what it is.

    I now think I’m on the right path and thank you again for the help! Now to work on keeping my eyes down until I hear the ball go in.

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