How To Re-grip Your Clubs

It’s Easy and Economical!

Remove your old grips and replace them with a fresh new set of standard slip-on grips in six easy steps. Replacing grips is one of the easiest ways to renew a set of clubs, giving you the great tacky feel and improved performance of a new set. You should renew your grips each year. You’ll be amazed at the improvement!

If you would like to purchase a product or have more information on a product mentioned below, simply note the product code in parenthesis () and locate that product at www.golfworks.com or at a Golf Galaxy retail store.

We teach this skill in my GolfWorks schools.

Step 1

Step 1 Place the golf club shaft in a Rubber Shaft Clamp (RSC) and tighten it in a Universal Vise (UCMV). It’s best to use the Master Grip Gauge (MAGG) to measure the grip’s current size. That way, you can be sure that the new grip will be sized the same. Grip size is measured at a point 2” below the top of the grip. The Gauge opening that becomes snug at the 2” point is the grip’s size.

Step 2

Step 2 To remove the old grip, carefully cut the grip, starting at the lip, using the Utility Knife (GWUK) using the Hook Blade, being certain to cut away from your body. The hook blade prevents cutting into a graphite shaft. Peel the cut grip off the shaft.

Step 3

Step 3 Remove the old tape prior to installing the new grip. Use the Blade Style Tape Stripper(GW1102) by grasping the ball handle and pushing the scraping end repeatedly through the tape as shown. For graphite shafts, use a less aggressive angle with the Tape Stripper to avoid damaging the shaft. Any remaining tape residue is quickly removed with a paper towel dampened with grip solvent.

Note: At this point, if you wish to “build up” the grip to a large size, you can apply Build Up Tape (BU2). Each wrap adds about 1/64” thickness.

Step 4

Step 4 Apply a strip of Double Coated Tape (DFTG2) lengthwise along the shaft, beginning where the grip ends and extending 1/2” beyond the butt end of the shaft. Remove the paper backing, wrap the tape around the shaft, and twist the end and push it inside the shaft (to prevent fluid from entering shaft).

Note: You can substitute a Water Activated Tape (WST18) if you choose. It is a little more difficult to use, but makes solvents unnecessary.

Step 5

Step 5 Cover the vent hole on the grip with your finger and pour solvent into the grip. Pour solvent from the grip over the tape (as shown), wetting it thoroughly, and quickly position the mouth of the grip beneath the shaft. Lightly pinch the grip to open the mouth. Slide the grip onto the shaft in one smooth motion until you feel the shaft butt up against the inside of the grip cap.

Note: A useful tool is the Grip Installer Tool (GIT). It helps start stubborn grips over the end of the shaft.

Step 6

Step 6 Lastly, set the club in the normal playing position, and make sure the grip is on straight. If there are any alignment lines or marks on the front of the grip, make sure they are rotated toward the front. Twist the grip to achieved the desired alignment. Let the grips set overnight.

At The GolfWorks, we have clubmaking and repair experts with hundreds of collective years of experience to assist you with all of your repair and alteration needs.

Other helpful how-to tips can be found at www.golfworks.com.

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Article Discussion

  • 1:09PM - Nov 29, 2007RE: How To Re-grip Your Clubs

    #25
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    bassplayer7770, a turkey baster is good. I have switched to the spray can solvent just for use inside the grip and pouring over the tape. This is very fast with no mess, but anyway you do it is OK. I still catch the solvent and pour it into another container.

  • 12:19PM - Nov 28, 2007RE: How To Re-grip Your Clubs

    #24
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    Just fyi, I stopped by Lowe’s after work yesterday to pick up some supplies. Tubing cutter with replacement wheels, masking tape (build-up tape), and a roller paint pan (to catch excess solvent). I also plan to get a cheap funnel to put the solvent back into the bottle when I’m finished.

    As for putting the solvent into the grip, what do people suggest? One builder I know uses a turkey baster.

    Also fyi, I received my Grip Essentials Kit yesterday, so I’m set on those items.

  • 2:50PM - Nov 27, 2007RE: How To Re-grip Your Clubs

    #23
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    bassplayer7770, all of the tubing cutters are not made for hardened steels, but they do work well, That’s why i suggested you buy a couple spare cutting wheels. Yes, any masking tape will do. The cheaper brands work just as well as the more expensive ones.

  • 9:25AM - Nov 27, 2007RE: How To Re-grip Your Clubs

    #22
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    I just looked again. There are options for under $10, but I’m not sure if they’re ideal for steel tubing or not. I might as well pick one up while I’m getting a new grip.

    I assume basic masking tape can be used as build-up tape?

  • 9:09AM - Nov 27, 2007RE: How To Re-grip Your Clubs

    #21
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    bassplayer7770, yes, the Golfworks unit is the same and works well. I have not bought a tubing cutter in a long time at the store, but i figured they would be under 10 dollars?

  • 8:21AM - Nov 27, 2007RE: How To Re-grip Your Clubs

    #20
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    Great! Do I win a prize for catching the typo? hehe

    I appreciate your help.

    Rather than a tubing cutter (not cheap at Lowe’s), is the shaft cutter from GolfWorks (and Golfsmith) basically the same? I’d rather not spend a lot of money on a cutter when I’ll likely get a chop saw as soon as I can setup a workshop (which will likely be after we sell our house and move).

  • 7:18AM - Nov 27, 2007RE: How To Re-grip Your Clubs

    #19
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    bassplayer7770, I just fixed the above article where you saw the 1/16” build-up mentioned. This was a typo that was never caught by anybody but you so far. Actually, I could not figure out from your question where you got the 1/16” from. I figured it out this morning.

  • 9:19PM - Nov 26, 2007RE: How To Re-grip Your Clubs

    #18
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    Ralph, thanks so much for your reply. You answered my questions very well.

  • 6:01PM - Nov 26, 2007RE: How To Re-grip Your Clubs

    #17
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    bassplayer770, you will thoroughly enjoy club building as it is not only fun but really helps a golfer understand their equipment (this leads to playing better in my opinion). OK, here goes, an answer to one question at a time. A hacksaw does not work well cutting steel golf shafts because they are hardened steel. You will only ruin the hacksaw blade. Go to the hardware store or Home Depot or equivalent and buy yourself a tubing cutter. They come in a standard size and also a miniature model sometimes referred to as a mini tubing cutter. Both work well, but be sure and buy at least two extra replacement cutting wheels as golf shafts will tend to dull these over time. Do not buy a pipe cutter; only buy a tubing cutter, big difference (and cost). Putter grips are easy to install but you really need to be careful aligning them perfectly square to the putter heads leading edge. After slipping the grip on, put the putter in a very upright position with the putter head on the floor such that you can look (sight) directly down the shaft. Move your eyes from the grips flat spot on top to the leading edge of the putter head a few times to make sure it is square (at right angles to the putter heads leading edge). You can stretch most all putter grips to a larger size by simply adding a few more layers of tape under the grip (in some cases oversize putter grips are also available to buy). A beginners approach to oversize putter grips (simply because of lack of experience) is to put a whole bunch of tape on the shaft, add a layer of double coated tape, wet it down with solvent and slip on the grip. Next, quickly set the putter in the playing position and see if it feels right to you. If it feels right, simply align it as I already mentioned. If it doesn’t, quickly pull the grip off and either add more tape or take some off to change the size. There is nothing wrong with this method as you are learning. After a while, you will be able to predict grip size on putters more accurately. Here is the best rule of thumb to use on masking tape thickness; one wrap equals .010” (a 1/64” oversize grip is +.015”). So, if you want a slightly undersize 1/64” use one wrap of masking tape (.010” vs. .015”). If you want a slightly bigger 1/64” oversize grip use two layers of masking tape (.020” vs. .015”). Note that most clubmakers use one wrap for 1/64” oversize (1 wrap =.010” vs. 1/64” actual which is .015”) oversize and 3 wraps for 1/32” (3 wraps =.030” vs. .032” which is 1/32’ oversize). Your final question about grip size when installing a .590” Maltby Weave Grip on a .600 butt shaft is as follows; the grip will install slightly less than 1/64” oversize (installs to .010”). If you add a layer of masking tape for build-up you will add an additional .010” oversize (total of .010” masking tape and .010” grip stretch (.590” grip mandrel size stretching to .600” shaft butt size) for a grand total of .020” oversize or slightly more than 1/64” (.015”). This is actually not all that complicated, it is learned very fast and certainly makes re-gripping (clubmaking) a lot of fun. Messing around with golf clubs is one great hobby!!! Hope I have answered your questions without too much confusion.

  • 2:03PM - Nov 26, 2007RE: How To Re-grip Your Clubs

    #16
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    “Each masking tape layer or wrap will increase the grip size by .010? to .013?.”

    “Note: At this point, if you wish to ?build up? the grip to a large size, you can apply Build Up Tape (BU2). Each wrap adds about 1/16? thickness.”

    I’m confused. Does each layer of tape add 1/100” or 1/16”?

    I’m usually measured for a Standard +1/64” grip. If I was to use your .590 Maltby Weave grip on a .600 **** end shaft, then that should put me at .01 over standard. Correct? If I added an extra wrap of tape, where would that leave me?

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