Women's Iron Design Characteristics

(What Women Need To Know To Play Better Golf)

Introduction

In the mid 90’s I became very interested in women’s golf clubs. This all came about because my wife knew that I was working on a new ladies club for The GolfWorks called the Logic Lady. Being an avid golfer, she felt that women needed additional design considerations simply because many of her golfing friends had trouble hitting irons and especially in getting the ball airborne. There was also a lack of consistency in hitting acceptable shots. I could associate with these statements, but all I could come up with was what I always thought and that was to make sure women’s irons had a low center of gravity.

Well, as the conversation continued, she said something that I had never heard before nor ever thought of. She said that women do not take divots. Sure, some of the better playing women golfers take a divot, but the vast majority of women golfers do not take divots. Women are simply not strong enough and consequently they mostly swing in a sweeping arc vs. a down and through arc.

So, while designing this iron, two very important things were about to come together. First, my wife’s statement about women not taking divots and secondly, the fact that I was well into proving out the Maltby Playability Factor (MPF) for irons. This made me realize that it would be important to get a cross section of women golfers together and find out any additional information and to also confirm what women think concerning hitting a golf ball and simply playing the game. One of the new pieces of data to prominently emerge was that many women felt that golf was a difficult game to play. I assumed from this statement that they probably felt they did not have equipment that was easy to hit. Wrong! They had no idea why. Most felt that it was difficult to be good at hitting the golf ball. Many women golfers planned on playing the clubs they had and were not considering a new set, other than possibly the addition of a chipper or other utility club. This obviously pointed out that somehow, someway, women needed to know that there is equipment out there that can help them.

Every woman’s iron design should be in the Ultra Game Improvement playability range.

The Design Solution

Basically, the ideal iron designs (some of these design characteristics apply to metal woods also) for most women golfers have seven very important characteristics. The first is an extremely low center of gravity. Not just the ordinary low center of gravity, but a really low center of gravity. Actually, it needs to be below .700”. The second characteristic is a bigger “C” Dimension (horizontal center of gravity moved farther away from the hosel) of no less than 1.500”. Third, a more rearward positioned center of gravity than most irons would normally have. The minimum recommended is .600”. Fourth, a much wider sole than most all other irons and fifth the addition of at least 4° of bounce angle. Sixth, a weaker loft than what is typically found on most men’s irons. 28° loft is a good minimum and 30° is still not too much. Seventh, a woman’s iron head needs to be heavier than men’s iron heads because the golf club length for women is shorter than men’s. A woman will not feel the heavier head weight because of the shorter overall club length.

The previous seven important design characteristics just discussed apply to the head design itself. This now brings us to two additional important considerations concerning the overall golf club. First, most women’s clubs are simply too long. A woman’s #5 iron should be no longer than 37 ¼” unless special lengths are needed for taller women golfers of better playing ability. While we are discussing length, the driver should be no longer than 43” (today, some manufacturers are building stock ladies driver lengths at 44”, 44½” and even 45”). Secondly, most women’s shaft flexes are much too stiff for them and the bend points are too high. Most shafts that I measure are actually in the “A” flex category and not even in the standard “L” flex category. The actual flex that works best is an “LL” flex or a flex that is actually more flexible than the so-called standard “L” flex. The shaft should also have a low shaft bend point. This means that most of the bending in the shaft favors the lower portion of the shaft.

The Result

Here is what happens when the overall design considerations already discussed are applied to the above clubhead. Since women do not take divots and are basically sweepers of the ball, the wider sole coupled with the increased bounce angle, will not allow the clubhead to dig into the ground and create fat shots. The sole simply glides on top of the turf, so the fear of sticking the clubhead into the ground and hitting a chunk shot is eliminated. In other words, one bad variable is gone.

Once again, since most women sweep the ball, the extremely low center of gravity allows the clubhead to slide into the ball and always have its center of gravity well below that of the golf balls center of gravity. For proper trajectory and a solid hit to happen, the clubheads center of gravity must always be lower than the golf balls center of gravity at impact. This is easy for most men who hit down and through the ball and take divots because they are driving the center of gravity of the clubhead downward (not sweeping it horizontally) and impacting the ball well below its center of gravity. Bottom line so far: The extremely low center of gravity in women’s irons makes it easy to get every shot airborne without the fear of hitting the shot fat because of the wider bounce sole which resists digging.

Every woman’s iron design should be in the Ultra Game Improvement Category regarding the Maltby Playability Factor (MPF). The extremely low center of gravity coupled with the longer “C” Dimension (horizontal center of gravity located farther from the hosel centerline) and a farther back rearward center of gravity location assures the head design to be in the maximum playability category. This is the easiest to hit iron head design for women.

Finally, take this very forgiving and easy to hit iron head design and mate it with a more flexible (“LL”), low bend point shaft at an overall club length that is not too long and you have a great playing ladies golf club that makes the game of golf so much easier to play and the absolute fastest way to improve.

After all the articles I have written and the seminars that I have given (since 1998) regarding my findings on ladies clubs, it has now finally spurred the leading OEM’s into designing ladies clubs using many of these same principles discussed here. At least some of them are treating women separately and not simply putting a different shaft and a different color medallion into their men’s head models.

For anyone interested, I have designed four ladies models (irons and metal woods) using the above criteria. The first design was the Logic Lady (1999, 2003) in the GolfWorks Maltby club line and has been the biggest selling ladies club in the history of the company. The next model was the Power Bilt ladies Grand Slam Oversize (2001) and for the 2004 model year, Tommy Armour Golf introduced the 845W Silverback. I recently introduced (2007 model) the LTECH ladies clubs for the GolfWorks Maltby line and also for Golf Galaxy consisting of drivers, fairway metals, hybrids, irons and wedges.

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  • 9:58AM - Sep 3, 2009RE: Women's Iron Design Characteristics

    #42
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    Surffish, that is not a gap. The ruler starts at true zero. It simply does not put any measuring marks in the first inch. The readings you get at the grip end will be correct. Be sure the club is always held at the correct lie angle when measuring, meaning the clubhrad is touching the ground (floor) at face center every time.

  • 10:59AM - Sep 2, 2009RE: Women's Iron Design Characteristics

    #41
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    Thanks Ralph.

    I just received the parts and tools need from Golfworks. I was surprised by the 48inch ruler. There is a significant gap at the base of the ruler to where the ruling starts. Is that industry standard?

  • 2:33PM - Aug 31, 2009RE: Women's Iron Design Characteristics

    #40
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    Surffish, base the club lengths off of 37” on the #5 iron. Shoot for C-6 to C-7 or even possibly C-8, but no higher. If you need to, you can put up to 4 grams (2 swingweight points) in the hosels.

    If she is going to get a sand wedge, go 1/2” shorter than the PW and make it a D-1 or D-2.

  • 12:02PM - Aug 29, 2009RE: Women's Iron Design Characteristics

    #39
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    Ralph,

    I am about to build my wife a set of LTech irons with the LL flex shafts. She is 5’3” (floor to wrist is 32”) and swings around 60mph. Can you recommend a club length? Also, what is the swingweight range I should be testing with the L-Tech heads and LL shafts?

    Thanks, Jeff

    P.S. She is really excited about this set of clubs. Mostly because I am taking the time and effort to make them. Thanks for the brownie points. If she hits them better, the points will keep coming!

  • 7:56PM - Jul 13, 2009RE: Women's Iron Design Characteristics

    #38
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    Ralph,

    Why no offset in the LTech hybrids or the Glider Hybrids? My wife has become a fan of Cobra’s offset driver and offset 7 wood. Now she won’t hit anything unless it’s offset, including other fairway woods and other hybrids. Is there something to her madness?

    Unlce Hank

  • 10:00AM - Jul 6, 2009RE: Women's Iron Design Characteristics

    #37
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    uncle hank, the Glider series is a unique design to do just what you mentioned; to get the center of gravity as low as possible in an iron design. The LTech is a different design but still has the lowest center of gravity of any ladies model being sold today. Both are excellent for ladies to be able to get the ball airborne easily. So, basically it is you choice on whether you want a more hybrid set of irons or a more conventional set of irons. You cannot go wrong in either case.

  • 9:53AM - Jul 6, 2009RE: Women's Iron Design Characteristics

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    GregGolfs2, in theory, the H7 hybrid is to replace the #7 iron, but this is not always the case in all designs and needs to be evaluated on a case by case basis. In this case the H7 is 3 degrees stronger than the #7 iron and it is recommended to be 1 ¼” longer, so this makes it quite a bit longer hitting than the #7 iron. I would use the H7 to replace the #6 iron making the #7 iron the next shortest club in her set. You have done a very good job in your evaluation.

    The fairway metal to hybrid transition will depend on the distance gaps you are trying to achieve. In general here, you would look at 5 to 6 yards distance difference with each 3 to 4 degrees of loft and another 5 to 6 yards for each ½” in club length. For instance, if the longest hitting hybrid was an H6 at 30 degrees and 38”, the closest fairway metal would be a #9 fairway at 27 degrees and 40 ½” club length. Calculation; subtract 5 or 6 yards for the 3 degree loft difference. Add 25 to 30 yards for the 2 ½” increase in club length. Net results are plus about 20 some yards. If you were looking for 15 yards difference you could shorten the fairway metal ½” to 1” as one option. There are others. I am trying to help you in your thinking, as this is how to figure out a set make-up that works for her or for that matter anyone else. You are already using this kind of thinking, which I really like, so I am providing a little more guidance on how to approach this in the best way as there is no one answer. Good question Greg.

  • 4:49PM - Jul 2, 2009RE: Women's Iron Design Characteristics

    #35
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    Ralph,

    Thank you. I’ll try that, but one more question – - in comparing dimensional characteristics and other info for the LTech I was surprised to see that the COG is higher than it is for the Glider iron heads. Would she be better off with one of those clubheads since the overal head weight appears comparable, or are there other design features in the LTech more suited for her? Thanks.

  • 3:49PM - Jul 2, 2009RE: Women's Iron Design Characteristics

    #34
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    Ralph,

    I’ll be building a complete set for my wife using LTech woods, hybrids and irons with LTech LL sticks. She is a beginner with a slow sweeping swing.

    Assuming the H7 as the shortest hybrid in the set, should the next shorter club be an 8 iron or a 7 iron?

    Referencing the ‘recommended lengths and lofts’ charts on pg 36 of the 2009 catalog, it seems the 8-iron’s 7 degrees higher loft plus the 1-3/4 inch shorter length compared to the H7 might add up to a too-large distance difference.

    The 7 iron is 3 degrees loft and 1-1/4” in length different from the H7. Would this result in a better distance gap?

    In forum post (‘clubs for daughter’ dated June 17 2008) you state “Notice that the hybrids are in 1” increments and also 1” away from the longest iron left in the bag.” So the ‘1” away from the longest iron’ part of this statement also seems to point to an H7 to 7 iron transition.

    I am also unsure about the fairway wood to hybrid transition.

    What do you recommend?

  • 12:55PM - Jul 2, 2009RE: Women's Iron Design Characteristics

    #33
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    uncle_hank, I think the LTech would work very well for her. From what you said, I would do this; get just the 5 iron first for her to try. Use the LTech graphite shaft in “L” flex and make the #5 iron length 36 1/2”. She may be able to handle 37”, but I would do this test at 36 1/2”. The lie angle will probably be close, but you will still need to check it.

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