andy_sr, the Cleveland CG-10 wedges are some of my favorite wedges because they have a decently wide sole width that stays the same width from the center of the face into the heel area (very important in pitching and chipping for non tour pros). The shaft in a wedge simply needs to be quite stiff and is a very minor fitting variable. It can be the same flex or stiffer than the irons but it cannot be of a lessor flex. The shaft that came in them is one flex (stiff) and can be used for almost all golfers. So, you should be fine with the wedges the way they are.
Long Clubs and Swing Weight
-
1:16PM - May 20, 2008RE: Long Clubs and Swing Weight
#4
Report ThisRalph Maltby
-
-
- 935 Posts
-
9:38AM - May 20, 2008RE: Long Clubs and Swing Weight
#3
Report Thisandy_sr
-
- User
- 4 Posts
Ralph, thanks so much. Exactly what I need. I was ahead of you on the weights – I already had ordered to 2 oz, but I did not understand that impact of shaft weight on swing weight. I was also planning to dynamically fit for lie.
Just for clarification. I was planning to use my barely used Cleveland CG10 wedges for him. Are you suggesting I reshaft them with Dynamic Gold S shafts?
FYI – he uses a uses a std S shaft Cleveland 460cc Launcher driver. Seems to work well enough for now.
Thanks again
-
4:16PM - May 19, 2008RE: Long Clubs and Swing Weight
#2
Report ThisRalph Maltby
-
-
- 935 Posts
andy_sr, OK, I need to make a few assumptions here, but I think I can lead you in the right direction. First of all, I am assuming you have the screw-in weights that came with the Kinetics. These were 4 gram weights in the toe and heel. We make and sell 2 gram weights, so that would help some in the head weight department. I would simply go 1” over standard because no one I ever knew could come up with 1/4” increments. So, we are talking a 39” #5 iron. 1” over standard is 6 swingweights increase and we can remove 2 of them with the lighter weight screws so we are going to get 4 swingweights heavier with the XL Lite shafts which I assume are an “S” flex. I am recommending that you go with a True Temper Dynamic Gold shaft in parallel tip and S-300 flex. Your son at 280 yards with a driver is at the high end of “S” flex and the low end of “X” flex (have you ever had his swing speed checked with a driver?
The Dynamic Gold S-300 shaft is about 10 to 15 grams heavier than the XL shaft, so we will reduce the swingweight by about 2 points more (heavier shafts require lighter head weights to maintain the same swingweight vs. lighter shafts which require heavier head weights to maintain the same swingweight, so trust me, the swingweight will be reduced). Assuming you were a D-2 at 38” on the #5 iron we are now at a theoretical D-4 at 39” which is no problem. I went with the Dynamic recommendation because it is tip stiff and low torque which is what we want when we go this much over length. He will have plenty of feel at this length and he will have better directional control.
Check the lie angle using the lie board or something to determine the correct lie for him. Keep this in mind, for every ½” you lengthen a club the lie angle appears 1 more degree upright. So the 1” length change will automatically make the clubs appear 2 degrees more upright to the player.
I don’t think you will need a butt extension except if you are making up a 3 iron in the set (I am assuming starting with a #4 iron here). Also, when you get to the #9 iron, make the PW, GW, SW and Lob ¼” shorter each. If no gap wedge is used then go ¼” from the PW to the SW and a ¼” to the lob. I know I like to keep my wedges at ½” increments and I often recommend this but it has always worked out better with very tall players to go ¼” mostly to save their backs.
Also, go 1” over on the hybrids and the KE4 80 shafts in “S” flex will be OK. Now, I know we are not talking about drivers, but I sure hope he is not playing a driver over 45” long. There is no need to go 1” over on the driver. Even tall tour players stay at 45” and they sometimes have longer iron and fairway club lengths. You simply loose too much directional control for the small increase in driving distance. Remember to get the small increase in driving distance you must hit the ball on the middle of the face. This becomes increasingly harder as the driver club length gets longer. It’s amazing the number of players who actually hit the ball longer with a shorter length driver because they can hit on the middle of the face.
-
2:59PM - May 19, 2008Long Clubs and Swing Weight
#1
Report Thisandy_sr
-
- User
- 4 Posts
I am giving my KE4 iron heads to my son ( I Upgraded to KE4 Tour and love them!). He is 6 foot 5 inches and a few years back was recommended by local pro to have shafts 1 1/4 inches over std and stiff (He can drive 280 yds). Lie should be plus 2 deg. Few years ago, before I knew what I was doing, I slapped together a set and used True temper XL Lite shafts because they come a little longer than others and needed the length after tip trimming for stiff.
Can I not use his old shafts? If I put std heads on won’t they be too heavy? I am giving him 2 new KE4 hybrids (3 & 4) with KE4 80 shafts. Should I go 1&1/4 over std for them? What about wedges – I have 3 used but nice Cleveland CG10 wedges. Should I add **** extensions?
I trying to come up with reasonable swing weight
Any advice or recommendations. I am not opposed to starting over with new shafts.